African wax prints, also known as Ankara and Dutch wax prints, are omnipresent and common materials for clothing in Africa, especially West Africa. They are industrially produced, colorful cotton cloths with batik-inspired printing. One feature of these materials is the lack of difference in the color intensity of the front and back sides. The wax fabric can be sorted into categories of quality due to the processes of manufacturing.
Normally, the fabrics are sold in 12 yards as "full piece" or 6 yards as "half piece". The colors comply with the local preferences of the customers. Mainly clothing for celebrations is made out of these.
The wax prints are part of a nonverbal way of communication among African men and women, and hereby they carry their message out into the world. Some wax prints can be named after personalities, cities, building, sayings or occasions. The producer, name of the product and registration number of the design is printed on the selvage, protecting the design and allowing reading the quality of the fabric. The wax fabrics constitute capital goods for African women. Therefore, they are collected depending on the financial possibilities.
Method for Creating Ankara Fabric
Because manufacturers wanted to create a type of fabric that was similar to Batik, the methods to create both Ankara and Batik are similar. Both involve spreading hot wax across the cloth before it is dyed to create interesting patterns. The wax acts as a barrier and wherever the wax was placed, dye can’t penetrate. If the pattern involves a lot of colors, the fabric is often pre-dyed before the wax is applied. However, that all depends on the pattern.
Difference between Batik and Ankara
The major difference between Batik and Ankara is the patterns that are created. Although Ankara prints can be made by hand, they are typically produced on a large scale by textile machines. Both methods produce unique patterns in their own right. Machine-made Ankara has imperfections due to a “crackling” effect that the handmade versions don’t have. However, handmade patterns are unique and no two handmade patterns are the same. Both types are in high demand.
Once upon a time, the Ankara fabric was considered to be the official clothing of poor people. The affluent hardly ever wore Ankara, and even when they did, it would be because of an occasion or event, not because they desired to. That has however changed. Ankara is now not only worn by the rich, it has gone international. Many stars, home and abroad, now rock the Ankara fabric in different types of modern designs. Ankara is now being made into beach shorts, pants, playsuits, evening dresses.
Ankara accessories are now the reigning fad. Bangles, slippers, purses, earrings, shoes, you name it! If it’s a popular accessory, it definitely has an Ankara alternative.
Reasons why the Ankara is here to stay
The Vibrant Patterns
Ankara made its way from the Indonesian industry it was created for into West Africa and became a style phenomenon. A common fabric in Africa because of its colorful features and tribal-like motifs, it is usually presented in 100% cotton with bold vibrant patterns.
The Versatility
The ‘Ankara’ print has gained a fashionable global audience as it’s used on pieces everywhere around the world.
Known in different names in different places, it’s called ‘Dutch wax’ in Ghana, ‘Kanga prints’ in Tanzania and other East African countries, known as Ikat, Batik, mud cloth and so on.
Ankara is also referred to as /African prints/African Wax Prints/Holland Wax and more but one thing remains, they feature bold prints in different designs.
-Usually Colorful
Ankara was first introduced to the market as a cheap mass produced imitations of Indonesian batik materials before they became synonymous with Africa (West Africa particularly) and very colorful too.
-Represents African culture
The now famous print was originally made for the Indonesian market but it became accepted in West Africa due to its flashy colors and bold tribal tendencies and became a symbol of traditional fashion till date.
From West Africa, this fabric became acceptable in different parts of the world influencing the works of notable designers who have at a time infused the fabric into their work or influenced their print details on pieces.
Comes in 100% cotton material
Ankara/Africa Print remains a fab piece not going anywhere soon if anything, its dynamics keep getting stronger by the day and because they come in 100% cotton they are versatile and there’s no limit to how they can be crafted.
With this we can see why Ankara is indispensable and here to stay.
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