WIGS WEAVES AND ‘FROS

In recent times the hairstyle industry in Africa has been revolutionary. Women are now encouraged to wear out their hair, ie their ‘fro's, to work and social events, and not feel ashamed of it.

One advocate amongst many, is Emma Dabiri an Irish-Nigerian, academic, broadcaster and author of the book ‘Don’t Touch My Hair. (I am yet to read the book) According to one review, "it was a blueprint for the decolonisation of black hair." According to another, "It was an unapologetic and intellectual journey." At every turn on social media and other platforms when talking about her book she celebrates with pride her hair in all its glory. Styled in the many almost forgotten hairdos from the Yoruba speaking region of Nigeria.

One can only ask what led to this and why are just learning to love our hair again?

Looking back we heavily lost the pride to wear natural hairstyles like shuku and threading somewhere in the early 80s and 90s. At this point we venerated all things European, which meant that pride in our hair took a big hit as we were made to believe it was wild, unmanageable and could not be tamed.

With the advent of  perming and "fixing" gone were women with full afros, weaving and updo threading, and in came hairstyles made with synthetic materials to resemble “onyibo” hair. The symbol of "Africaness" our hair, and pride was lost.

It didn't get any better because as soon as women were able to afford "Brazilian and Indian hair" which are sourced from the said nations, this has made the hair extensions industry millions. Giving African women like me a false impression she is wearing something authentic, natural and tameable.

I am as guilty as the next woman because I prefer the grab and go nature of wearing wigs. Although at the moment I am growing my own hair in the process, hoping to wear it out with pride as I did when I was a young girl. As young girls, seeing whose hair grew longest was a competition we enjoyed, especially if you attended an all-girls secondary school either as a boarder or a day student.

A visit to the market women hairdressers, or the Fulani woman in the next street on Sunday after Church and lunch, filled us with both dread and excitement. Excitement to see how long your hair had grown, and also wearing a new hairstyle to school the next week. Dread was from the pain you are about to face having ones hair pulled, but these are all the memories and experiences lost over the years.

Encouraging African women to grow and  wear out their natural hair looks as though it has had another blow with the latest wigs on offer. Wigs now come in braids, plaits, shuku, cornrows but to name a few. Making it easy for women to look very African but without the hassle.

Just like Emma dabiri, and others championing the emancipation of the afro, Kelechi Yibo koko  the CEO of Yellow Sisi, a natural hairdressing salon in Lagos Nigeria is doing an excellent job of making women love their hair. She gives tips on how to maintain and manage our hair as this is one aspect most women find challenging.

In a brief online Q&A,  I wanted to know if the latest wigs which are now in weaves, braids, afros and almost every African hairdo you can think of has had any negative effect on her business.

She stated that nothing stops a woman who has discovered the beauty of wearing her natural from continuing. This signifies "home" according to her. She also said, now and again women deserve a break from getting their natural hair done, so a wig comes in handy if they do no want to wear their 'fro out as this helps  the hair flourish.

Furthermore, she stated that the new wigs on offer have had no adverse effect on her business and she knew it would be an uphill task encouraging women to give up the culture of wearing wigs and weavons. It became an  apparent  need to discover innovative ways to install hairstyles which sometimes require extensions to give the natural look some oomph,helping to minimize damage to the natural hair, either during the installation or take down process.

I also went further to ask the opinion of women I know if they preferred to wear their 'fro out, to wear, natural braids, plaits and weaves or cop out and throw a wig on instead. Ayo Ora, Helen John, Ebi Taylor Blessing Ikpuri, Sol Yaa, Comfort Ibieneye preferred wigs due to its cost effectiveness and time saving appeal. In favour of natural braids, weaving and afro, were Boma Onochie, Marigold Thomas, Gina Thompson, Anthonia Igbomor, Nwakaego Igbo Nike Badmus, Jennifer Conniff-Kumapayi and Fyne Jumbo. They stated that the feeling, wearing these style naturally, are second to none. On the fence was Gladys Esue who loves the natural hairstlyes  but appreciates the cost effectiveness of wigs in a busy world. Abo Nenneth said "it was an evolution of African hairstyles."

In my opinion, the afro and all her almost forgotten hairstyles that is our identity, has made a big comeback. With celebraties like supermodel and author Eunice Olumide MBE,  Rihanna, author Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie and others being spotted at high profile events wearing cornrows, it goes to show we had nothing to be ashamed of before. Not to be left out, big fashion houses like Versace Oscar de la Renta, Chanel and others, now have  models wearing cornrows on their runways.

It is evident that for the next generation they have every reason to be proud of their heritage. Our hair is our pride, our identity, and, our story. In the words  of Emma  Dabiri, we have to enjoy our hair rather than tolerate it.